Grooming your Cat

Grooming means taking daily care of the cat for its health and beauty. The purpose is to tone up the muscles; remove dirt, grease, dead hairs and dead skin flakes; and stimulate blood circulation, thus improving the condition of the hair and skin.

Many cats seem able to groom themselves successfully, but the majority appreciate and enjoy a little help from their owners. If there is more than one cat in the household, they will often indulge in mutual grooming sessions. It is a case of: 'You wash my back and I'll wash yours'. The mother cat will wash the new-born kittens thoroughly, both to keep their coats clean and to stimulate the circulation and the production of urine and faeces.

Washing appears to be an instinctive process, as newborn kittens will begin to make ineffective washing movements at about three weeks of age, and by the time they are six weeks old, most kittens will be making a pretty good job of it. Very often the first sign of a queen coming on call (into heat) is the way she washes vigorously all over, particularly in the vaginal area.

The Oriental Foreign Shorthairs with their short coats and long noses, and consequently long tongues, are especially efficient at self-grooming. But their longhaired cousins have long coats and short noses, with correspondingly short tongues, so are less able to cope. Thus we find that some need help with grooming, and all should enjoy it.

It is best to develop a daily routine, possibly grooming just before feeding your cat, so it gets 'used to have a little combing, brushing and loving session, which appears to be rewarded by a good meal. An important part of these sessions is removing dead hairs to prevent hair balls forming in the stomach, which could well happen if the cat were allowed to swallow all the loose hairs in its coat. In nature, where cats have to fend for themselves and hunt for food, the hair balls so formed are regurgitated with birds' feathers and rodents' skins. So the cat owner should not be alarmed if her pet throws up what looks like a long grey sausage on the carpet. It is only a hair ball. But in domesticity, hair balls tend to accumulate in cats' stomachs, particularly among the longhaired varieties. If not regurgitated, the balls may form solid intestinal obstructions that at worst must be removed surgically. Prevention by daily combing is plainly better than cures as drastic as that.

The daily grooming session can establish a psychological link between the owner and the cat: a bond of dependence forged by an enjoyable regular routine through?out the life of the cat. This practice should start when your pet is a kitten, and continue in whatever condition the cat finds itself. Kittens consider it a great game and will try to bite and fight with the brush or comb; queens appreciate a little attention to the parts they cannot reach during pregnancy; stud cats, living in their own quarters, look forward to this little daily attention from their owners: ill cats appreciate a clean?up, when unable to do it themselves; and elderly cats find contentment in being looked after by their owners at a time in life when interest in much else has waned. Thus grooming serves the well-being of the cat both physically and emotionally and owners will find this little devotion adding a new dimension to their relationship with the cat.

Eyes

Equipment required: cotton wool, salt solution.
The normal eye is clear and alert. If the third eyelid begins to come across each eye from the inner corner, there is something wrong. It may be an indication of a temperature, or an early sign of infection. A single visible 'haw' (third eyelid) may indicate an accident to one eye only. If the condition persists, a veterinarian must be consulted. If the tear ducts are blocked, the tears have to course down the cheeks and may leave a discoloration from the eye to the nose. This mark must be removed with cotton wool dipped in a salt solution (one teaspoonful to a pint of boiled water, cooled; equivalent to 18 gm of salt in a litre of water). A (usually brown) discharge from the eye may also be a sign of respiratory infection and a veterinarian must be consulted. Eyes should be looked at once per week or bathed more often if necessary.

Ears

Equipment required: cotton-wool buds; liquid paraffin; ear mite solution. If there is any trouble inside the ears, the cat may scratch them. This may be an indication of ear-wax or ear mites. If mites, dark waxy specks appear at the entrance of the ear. These result from ear mange-mites or Otodectes cynotis, which are contagious among dogs and cats. Ideally the cat should be isolated from other animals until cured.

You can remove the encrustations of wax and mite dirt with a cotton-wool bud dipped in liquid paraffin or ear-mite solution, but some of the solution will then have to be poured into the ear daily. It is important to see that the cat does not shake its head and throw the contents out before these have had a chance to penetrate into the deeper parts of the ear. Help this penetration by massaging the warm liquid into position before letting the cats head move. Then the second ear can be attended to. It is not wise to poke down beyond what can be seen. Ears should be inspected once per week and attended to daily when necessary.

Teeth

Equipment A hand, or wooden spatula, for opening and examining the mouth. Discoloration of teeth or gums, pale gums or bad breath indicate that veterinary attention is necessary. There may be tartar on the teeth, which can be removed by a veterinarian. Loss of appetite may be due to sore gums. Dribbling may be a sign of poison or ulcerated mouth. The best way to open the mouth is to tilt the head back with one hand and open the mouth with the forefinger of the other hand. Mouth and teeth should be inspected weekly.

Nose

Equipment Cotton wool and salt solution.

Any sign of a runny nose, sneezing or a nasal discharge is a warning that something requires attention. Since respiratory infections may be serious it is best to consult a veterinarian right away. However, if powder has been used for grooming, check that the cat is not allergic to this preparation. Isolate any sneezing cat from others.

Claws

Equipment Claw scissors or guillotine clippers; scratching post. Cats normally scratch against trees or a scratching post to sharpen and clean their claws. It is wise to supply a suitable post so as to distract them from using the furniture. An outdoor cat gets its claws trimmed naturally by walking on roads and paths, and also by scratching tree trunks. Indoor cats may find that their claws grow unduly long and get caught up in the carpets and upholstery. The claws should be shortened at the tips only. This is done by sitting the cat on your lap with its back facing you. Use one hand to hold up a paw pressing on the pad of the foot and the top of the foot to make the claws spring forward. You can then clip the claws with the scissors or clipper held in your other hand. The end of each claw is dead

 Basic Grooming Equipment

1 Dual-purpose bristle and wire brushes for general grooming. Care should be taken when using the wire side, as hard brushing can strip the coat.

2 Pure bristle brush, with short, soft bristles, especially good for shorthaired cats.

3 Rubber brush with short flexible filaments, and rigid plastic type for general grooming.

4 Blunt-ended scissors for cutting through mats (in a longhaired coat),

5 Toothbrush for brushing up the coat of a longhaired cat around the ears and eyes.

6 Cotton-wool buds for cleaning the outer parts of ears.

7 Wide, flat tail comb ensures each hair on the tail of a longhaired cat is separate. Also known as a slicker brush.

8 Specially shaped scissors for trimming the claws.

9 Fine-toothed comb for short-haired cats -  smooths the coat and removes fleas and dirt.

10 Wide-toothed comb for removing tangles in the fur of longhaired cats.

11 Metal dual-purpose comb with wide- and medium-spaced teeth, ideal as general purpose groomer.

12 Non-toxic baby shampoo, safe for cleansing.

13 Bay rum spirit conditioner; removes grease from the coat

14 Surgical spirit essential for removing stains from pale coats.

15 Cotton wool for cleansing eyes, ears and nose.

16 Non-toxic grooming powder or baby powder gives body to the coat. Sprinkle into the fur and brush out completely.

Coat

Equipment Brushes (pure bristle is best as it creates little static); combs; shampoo; grooming powders; cotton wool; ear plugs; Elizabethan collar; towels; bran; surgical spirit; silk cloth; chamois leather cloth.

Combing regularly helps to keep the coat free from dirt and parasites. It is best to start at the head, gradually moving towards the tail, and paying particular attention to behind the ears, and to chin, hind legs and underparts - especially in a longhaired cat. If mats have formed here they must be teased out with a blunt-ended knitting needle or, if too dense, cut out carefully with blunt-ended scissors. However, this will spoil the cat's appearance for the show bench.

If the cat is subjected to hours of pulling in an attempt to rectify a neglected coat, the owner should not be surprised if the cat loses patience and becomes bad tempered. It is better not to have a longhaired cat if you are not prepared to undertake two half-hour combing sessions each day.

When the head, back and tail have been combed to perfection, the cat should be turned over on its back to complete the underparts and legs. If this is done regularly from kittenhood, the cat will enjoy it and not struggle. The first combing should be done with a wide-toothed comb to remove tangles, followed by a medium- or fine-toothed comb to separate each hair. The coat can then be finished with a brush.

Gentle stroking along the lie of the fur, with a non-greasy hand of course, is often the best grooming treatment of all for the shorthairs. To add further shine, the coat can be polished with a silk handkerchief or a chamois leather. When brushing shorthairs brush along the lie of the fur, but in a longhaired cat the coat can be gently whipped up so that each hair stands away from the body and the ruff makes a wide frill or halo round the head. The tail should also be brushed up and gently shaken, holding the tip. When every hair is separate and stands away from the body, the cat is said to be in perfect show condition. It is not possible to attain this condition in one session; it is the result of twice-daily grooming all the year round.

A show cat may need to be shampooed a week before the show if the cat is at all dirty or greasy. Such marks will show up particularly in paler-coated cats. Make sure to choose a shampoo that is non-toxic to cats, especially one that contains no bleach or carbolic acid. A soft soap, such as a baby shampoo, is best. Cats are susceptible to many things that people and dogs are not, therefore it is necessary to be very careful in choosing preparations for grooming cats.

Shampooing your cat
Shampooing is really a task for two people. First get cat, people and equipment into the room and close all the doors and windows! Wear plastic overalls in case of accidents. The kitchen sink is the best place to work in because bathing can then be carried out at table height. A rubber mat in the bottom of the sink will prevent the cat's paws slipping and so give it confidence. Fill the sink to a depth of 5-7.5cm (2-3in) with water at the cats blood heat 38.3?C (101?F). Plug the cat?s ears with cotton wool in case it struggles. Then lower the cat into the water and hold it by the scruff of the neck. Soothing words will help to keep the cat calm at this stage. Next the fur should be gently wetted all over with a sponge, except for the head, and the shampoo rubbed gently in all over the body to produce a lather. Some cats purr while this is being done as it is warm and comforting. If your cat hates standing in the sink you can put its forelegs on the draining board. After two or three attempts it is usually possible to work out the best method.

After shampooing the cat, rinse thoroughly with warm water. A spray attachment on a short hose is particularly effective, as long as the pressure is gentle. It may be necessary to give a second shampoo, as above, but make sure that the final rinse removes all traces of shampoo from the coat.

Remove the cat from the sink and cuddle it in a large warm towel. Meanwhile the face can be washed by the second person using warm, wet cotton wool. Any stubborn marks on the face can be removed with surgical spirit taking care to keep it well away from the eyes.

Some cats enjoy being dried by a hair dryer, but many are frightened by the noise. One person can hold the cat, with four feet on the ground or table, while the other plays the hair dryer gently through the coat, taking care not to get too close or to singe the fur. The cat should then be put into the airing cupboard or left inside a container near a fire. It is essential not to let the cat out or leave it in a draught until the coat is thoroughly dry. When this is very nearly dry a gentle combing will help to separate the hairs.

The bath will leave the coat very soft. Thereafter until show day, give the coat a daily powdering with a non-toxic baby powder or fuller's earth, rubbed well in. then well brushed out again. This puts body back into the fur and helps to keep every hair separate. Not a trace of powder must be found on show day.

Dry cleaning your cat

Dry cleaning cats with short dark coats is a suitable alternative to bathing, unless the cat is particularly greasy. A bran bath is the usual method. Put 0.45-0.9 kg (1-21b) of bran into the oven and warm it to rather more than hand heat. Then stand the cat on a newspaper laid over a table or kitchen top. Now massage the warm bran into the fur with your hands. Most cats love this motion and the warmth engendered by a bran bath, and will purr continuously. When all the fur has been processed by the bran, move the cat on to a clean piece of newspaper and comb out the bran. Afterwards the coat should really gleam. A bran bath is not recommended for longhaired cats; particles of bran not removed could cause the formation of painful knots in the fur.