Keeping Finches as Pets
Finches are seed-eating passerine birds found predominantly in the northern hemisphere, but also to a smaller extent in Africa and South America. They are small to moderately large, are strong beaked( usually conical and in some species proportionally very large.
Finches have 12 tail feathers and 9 primaries, they fly with a bouncing flight with alternating periods of flapping and gliding on closed wings, and most sing well.
Varieties are numerous, as are colours ranging from grey and plain, to brightly coloured. They are busy, usually quiet though some do have a song. Lifespan is a modest 5 to 10 years for most varieties though some can live as long as 25 years.
Care and feeding:
Finches are easy to care for needing little more than fresh seed and water daily. Finch seed is available at most pet food stores, and they are small eaters and rarely overeat. Sprouted seed and spray millet are important additions to a dry seed diet. Finches like to hunt insects and grubs, so any you can provide will be hungrily accepted. Finches that receive little sunlight need cod-liver oil for extra vitamin D. Sparingly offer a little vegetable/leaf matter such as spinach, carrot tops, lettuce, watercress etc Occasional pieces of fruit are good as well.
In the wild finches eat dirt to add digestion and to get essential trace elements and minerals so ensure they receive grit with charcoal. Cuttlebone will ensure your finches receive their calcium requirements and as a result will ensure strong beaks, and eggs shells when breeding.
Finches love a bath and its also very important when moulting or breeding. Ensure they have play water, as well as drinking water.
Housing:
Finches exercise by flying so their cage should be at least 12" x 18" (30 cm x 45 cm) in size per pair. Cage should be placed on a stand or hung from a wall at eye level or at about 6 feet (1.83 metres) off the floor in a spot that has good light (but not direct sunlight), is well ventilated, and is draft free. Ensure they are against a wall, it will give them an enhanced sense of security
Provide two or three perches (sticks are fine) of about 3/8" to 3/4"(1.2 -1.8cm) in diameter. Finches will appreciate a nest box to sleep in as it provides warmth and security. A bird protector disk placed on the side of the cage will deter mites, and ensure the bottom of the cage has paper to absorb bird litter.
Finches can be kept in a roomy indoor aviary, a dedicated bird room, or an outdoor aviary (depending on your area) and all are usually good choices. Indoor or outdoor the aviary needs plenty of light and fresh air. The outdoor aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be heated and cooled if necessary and a flight made with about a 3/8" wire mesh – larger mesh will let in mice.
Maintenance:
Finch care is simple and quick, the main fcotr being to ensure a clean envrinoment to ensure prevention of disease. IN the wild, a finch will not of its own accord, live amongst its own poop. Ensure clean water and food daily, change the paper and grit every 2-3 days and wash the cage including perches weekly.
Social Behaviour of Finches:
Most finches are very social with lively personalities. They will not aggressive towards children or animals, indeed they are quite friendly and can easily be housed in a spacious cage with other finches and other hardbills of other species. . Larger species may be aggressive to smaller species especially where there is competition for food, good roosting spots or nesting spots. Watch mixed groups to spot bullying and fighting. Overcrowding may lead to stress and feather picking. Don’t house finches with parakeets, lovebirds, or other hookbills - these birds are more aggressive and will bother the finches.
Handling/Training:
Finches are hobby birds, rather than companion birds, and few will allow themselves to be happily handled. It’s not that they are aggressive when handled, it’s simply their strong prey instinct cannot stand the confinement.
You may need to hold you finch to trim its nails at some point, do so holding your finch gently, fear no bites, they are not harmful or dangerous.
Activities:
Finches need to move around for their health and well being. They must be able to fly from perch to perch. Keep the cage accessories to a minimum to ensure no crashes or line of flight impediments. A single toy, mirror, or branch on the side of the cage will be plenty and you can change them around periodically to ensure variety. Parakeet toys are safe for finches.
Breeding/Reproduction:
Many finch species easy to breed, including as the popular Zebra Finch and the Society Finch. These two finches will even help to rear the young of other finches. Others are not so eager to breed in captivity. Each species requires its own particular suitable environment for successful breeding. Some breed best as a single pair in a breeding box - others require a large aviary with many other birds around.
Sexes in many species differ in appearance while others look alike and can only be sexed by the behaviour or song of the male. Breeding season starts in early spring. Most often the female builds the nest herself. Nest types vary – some species use an open cup-shaped nest, whilst others prefer a nest box or an enclosed grass type or wicker finch nest. Not sure which for your finches? Provide a few types! For some you can distribute a layer of soft wood shavings, corn cob bedding, or other nesting material in the nest. Or you can try of nesting materials such as grasses, feathers, or commercially prepared finch nesting material in the cage or aviary.
As a general rule, the female should be at least a year old and the male should not more than five years old, though there is a rule of thumb that all finches should be no less than 8 months old before being bred. Both male and female must be very well fed and healthy.
Additional supplements, proteins, calcium, and vitamins A and D are necessary when breeding. You should supplement their diet as each species needs. Some will need extra bits of niger seed, spinach, lettuce and dandelion leaves, still others will need an insectivore diet. A bit of olive oil or wheat germ oil on their egg biscuit can help to prevent constipation and egg binding in the female.
Generally the female will lay an egg a day. Number of eggs layed will depend on the specics and range from 2 to 10, hatching int around 2 weeks. The young will leave the nest at around 3 weeks and be weaned in another 4.
Potential Problems:
Finches are hardy birds, most illnesses are due to improper diet, dirty cages, and drafts. A balanced diet and plenty of exercise will prevent most finch illnesses. Know your bird and watch for major changes as indications of illness.
Some signs of illness to be aware of are your finches sitting with their eyes closed, feathers that are ruffled, lack of appetite, irregular breathing, keeping their heads tucked under their wing, and acting feeble or run down.
Some of the common illnesses and injuries your finch could contract are broken wings or legs, cuts and open wounds, overgrown beaks and nails, ingrown feathers, feather picking, confinement cramps in the legs from a cage that is too small, weight loss, heat stroke, shock, concussion, egg binding, diarrhoea, mites, colds, baldness, scaly legs, sore eyes, tumours, loss of song, constipation, and diarrhoea.
Often the best remedy is heat. Isolate the bird in a hospital cage where you cover all but the front of the cage and add a light bulb or heating pad to keep the interior of the cage at a constant temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove all perches and put food and water dishes on the floor. If you don't see improvements within a few hours, take the bird to an avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Availability:
Many types of finches are readily available and fairly inexpensive little birds. Birds will vary in price based on availability and type. Australian finches are not imported, so they are generally more expensive. Young birds that have completed their first moult are easiest to get in the fall just before the end of the breeding season.
American Goldfinch
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